TOP 10 Mistakes Keeping Tarantulas DON'T DO THIS!

Ornithoctoninae sp Veronica, Veronica Earth Tiger (female)

Common Tarantula Care Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Whether you're just starting out or you've been keeping tarantulas for a while, there's always room to grow and improve your care routine. The tarantula hobby is full of trial and error, and trust me, I’ve made a lot of mistakes along the way. But that’s part of the process! As we continue to learn, we adapt our methods to provide the best care for our eight-legged friends. Let’s go over the top 10 mistakes people commonly make when keeping tarantulas—and how to avoid them.

1. Putting a Sponge in the Water Dish

One of the most outdated pieces of advice I see time and time again is putting a sponge in your tarantula’s water dish. The problem? Tarantulas don’t really drink from sponges. It’s much easier for them to sip directly from a shallow water dish or even from droplets on their web or the side of their enclosure. Some keepers use sponges to prevent drowning, but this often results in mold and bacteria growth, which can be harmful to your tarantula.

Instead, just use a shallow ceramic or plastic dish and keep it filled with fresh water. Don’t worry about your tarantula drowning—they can float! If you're concerned about feeder crickets getting stuck, simply place some aquarium gravel in one corner of the dish to give them a way to escape.

2. Misting Every Day

Another common mistake is obsessing over humidity and misting your tarantula’s enclosure daily. While some species, like Theraphosa blondi or Avicularia, thrive in more humid conditions, most tarantulas don’t require daily misting. In fact, constant misting can lead to stagnant air, which can be dangerous, especially in species like Avicularia (where SADS—Sudden Avic Death Syndrome—has been linked to over-misting and poor ventilation).

Instead, focus on creating a well-ventilated enclosure with occasional misting when necessary. A large water dish will generally meet your tarantula’s hydration needs. And remember, humidity shouldn’t be your main focus—airflow is just as important.

3. Using Heat Rocks, Lamps, or Pads

This is a mistake I made early on with my first tarantula, a Grammostola rosea. I was advised to use a heat rock or heat lamp, which, like many new keepers, I assumed was essential. The reality is that tarantulas don’t need UVB lighting or specialized heat sources like reptiles.

Tarantulas are ectothermic, meaning they regulate their body temperature based on their environment. If the room temperature is between 68-76°F, they’re perfectly comfortable. Heat pads or lamps can actually stress your tarantula and cause fatal temperature fluctuations. Instead, it’s best to heat the room the tarantula is in, rather than the enclosure itself.

4. Placing Enclosures in Direct Sunlight

Setting up your tarantula’s enclosure near a window sounds harmless, but it can cause serious issues. Direct sunlight can create a greenhouse effect, causing the temperature inside the enclosure to spike. Exposure to temperatures over 90°F or 100°F for prolonged periods can be dangerous to your tarantula, and the humidity levels will also drop, leaving your tarantula with an uncomfortably dry environment.

Be mindful of the sun’s path throughout the day. Even if it isn’t directly shining on the enclosure in the morning, it could be by midday. Move your tarantula’s enclosure to a more stable spot, and consider using curtains or blinds to control the sunlight.

5. Poor Ventilation in Enclosures

One of the biggest pitfalls in tarantula husbandry is improper ventilation. This is especially true for DIY enclosures, like the popular Amac boxes. Cross ventilation—holes drilled on opposite sides of the enclosure—is key to keeping airflow moving and preventing mold buildup.

If you’re using a glass aquarium, you can improve ventilation by creating a barrier with acrylic or mesh to ensure air circulates properly. For tarantula slings, simply opening the lid periodically can provide enough air exchange. As they grow, though, ensure there’s adequate airflow to keep the environment safe and healthy.

By far the best enclosures I have found for keeping tarantulas are Tarantula Cribs. The enclosures are made specifically for tarantulas and provide optimal cross ventilation while maintaining humidity. You can check out the full line of Tarantula Cribs enclosures and save 10% on your purchases using my code TTC10 at checkout or by clicking HERE.

6. Using Mesh Lids

Many commercial enclosures come with fine mesh lids, which may work fine for reptiles, but not for tarantulas. A tarantula can easily get its leg stuck in these mesh holes, leading to injury or even death. I’ve seen this happen countless times, and it’s heartbreaking.

Instead, consider replacing the mesh with a solid piece of acrylic or plexiglass. Simply use silicone to secure it and drill a few ventilation holes for airflow. You can also puchase premade acrylic lids for enclosures from companies like Tarantula Cribs. Your tarantula will thank you!

7. Using the Wrong Substrate

For years, I used a variety of substrates, including ReptiBark and aquarium gravel, because I was told those were suitable for tarantulas decades ago. The reality is that not all substrates are ideal, and some—like wood chips—are more appropriate for reptiles than spiders.

I highly recommend Terra Aranea by The Bio Dude. It's specifically designed to mimic the natural environment of tarantulas, providing the ideal moisture levels, humidity, and texture. This substrate not only supports your tarantula’s burrowing instincts but also helps maintain a healthy microclimate in the enclosure. Terra Aranea is a fantastic, all-natural choice that will create a safe, comfortable home for your tarantula.

Other good choices are ReptiSoil or even Peat Moss. I suggest staying away from Coco Fiber because despite it being very cheap and readily available, it is more ideal for growing mushrooms than for tarantulas. It is very dusty, hydrophobic and prone to mold and fungi growth. It also does not hold burrows well and is pretty bland to look at. Coco fiber can be a great ingredient in DIY substrates when mixed with peat moss, optting soil (with no fertilizer or pesticides) and a little sand.

8. Overfeeding

While it’s easy to fall into the habit of feeding your tarantula too often, this is a mistake many new keepers make. Tarantulas are opportunistic feeders and do not require food every day. Overfeeding can lead to obesity, especially in adult tarantulas, and may cause issues like abdominal rupture or problems during molting.

A good feeding schedule is to feed slings every 3-4 days, juveniles once a week, and adults every 10-14 days. If your tarantula doesn’t seem interested in food, don’t worry—it’s normal for them to go without eating for weeks or even months.

9. Feeding During Premolt

It’s tempting to offer food to a tarantula that isn’t eating, but try not to disturb them during premolt. Dropping crickets into the enclosure and leaving them can lead to dangerous situations, especially if the tarantula molts while the prey is still in there.

When a tarantula molts, it’s very vulnerable. The molting process can take hours, and during that time, the tarantula is soft and sluggish. If crickets are left in the enclosure, they can harm the molting tarantula. Always remove uneaten food after 24 hours to avoid this.

10. Disturbing During Molting

Molting is one of the most vulnerable times for a tarantula. During this process, your tarantula will shed its exoskeleton and grow into a new one. The process can take several hours or even a full day, and your tarantula is extremely fragile during this time. Disturbing a tarantula during its molt can cause severe injury or even death.

If you see your tarantula on its back, do not disturb it! Keep the enclosure undisturbed and avoid handling or checking on the spider unless it’s absolutely necessary. Some tarantulas may molt more successfully in private, so it’s best to give them the space they need. Once the molt is complete, allow your tarantula time to harden its new exoskeleton before resuming normal care.

Conclusion

These are the top 10 mistakes that I’ve either made or seen firsthand in the tarantula hobby. The important thing is to recognize when we’ve made a mistake and adjust our care routines accordingly. If you've made any of these mistakes, don’t stress—just tweak your methods and keep learning. The more we grow as hobbyists, the better we can provide the care our tarantulas deserve. Happy keeping!